Tweeds The Season This Winter: NYFW F/W 2024 Recap

I’m going to keep it super real. There weren’t a lot of good designers showing this season. Even the ones who are known to launch some pretty innovative collections in the past fell short this season. I’m looking at you, Tory Burch. There were definitely a few standout pieces I would love to have in my closet, but the entire collection itself just feels like everything I’ve seen in the past. Ironically, the objective of the collection was “making the everyday sublime” yet it did the opposite for the brand this season. Some popular trends I noticed this season: flamboyant neck scarfs, neutrals, fur jackets, academia aesthetic, and an overwhelming amount tweed, which I don’t mind one bit. The more tweed, the merrier. Here are some collections that had me on the floor:

Retrofête

If there was an it girl this season, it was without a doubt, Retrofête. She (or more accurately, two he’s) gave us everything we were looking for. It was sophisticated without being outdated. Sexy without being overly revealing. Glamorous without being flashy. If I had to pick the line that perfectly encapsulated the current social, mental, and directional state of our society, this would be the one. Well done, Seroya and Klin!

Tommy Hilfiger

Tommy has a soft spot in my heart. He was basically all I wore from the ages of 16-22. And if you know anything about me at all, it’s not hard to see why this collection has a chokehold on me. It has everything I love. The beige with the preppy aesthetic. Hello? It’s as if he made this collection specifically for me. Funny enough… When I planned for Urban Academy’s upcoming launch this past winter, the vibes are VERY similar to this collection. The way I was creatively aligned with Tommy before even seeing this collection is unreal to me. One day, this will come full circle and I will collab with him. I trust the universe to make it happen.

L’Agence

The “mob wife” trend has officially made it’s way onto the runway. And I can’t believe I’m saying this but… I’m actually not too mad about it. It’s honestly kind of iconic. My favorite thing about this collection is you can take any of these pieces, pair it with a different outfit, and the aesthetic of the piece can change. Every piece would add to an outfit rather than take away from it. I also like that you can wear any of these pieces alone without accompanying it with an existing piece from the line and it wouldn’t feel like it’s missing something. For example, take the glittery jacket from the fourth picture and pair it with a different pair of pants and the outfit would still feel complete. While the collection as a whole may not be entirely timeless, there are plenty of individual pieces that would stand the test of time.

Alice + Olivia

Two words for this collection: modern chic. There were many other designers who attempted to capture modern chic, but no one was able to do it like Bendet and Matchett. Brands who attempted to do this recently have either made it look too tacky or too outdated. With the severe rise of fast fashion, the concern for fabric quality has lowered. Especially with fabric that are supposed to be high quality like tweed and wool. And the comeback of Y2K trend is causing the lost of simplicity required for this type of aesthetic. A+O managed to pull off this classic look while still incorporating contemporary elements. This collection is a good segway for Bendet’s new teen line, Big Feelings, launching this fall because it doesn’t look like it’s trying to hard to appeal to the youth. Something I’m quite frankly tired of seeing.

Bibhu Mohapatra

As you may know by now from my “2023 Fashion Trends That Can Stay” post, I love clothes I can both party and sleep in. Obviously, this wasn’t the case for every outfit, but I definitely appreciate the sense of comfort peppered throughout this collection. Although Mohapatra used a variety of fabric in this collection, he made sure each type of fabric had its time to shine. A pattern I found with other designers this season was lack of allowing textiles have their moment. Simplicity can be difficult to achieve when the designer is using a mixture of patterns and fabric, yet Mohapatra managed to do so. The only bad thing about this collection is it would put me at risk of falling asleep in my makeup after a soirée.

Markarian

If Bridgerton took place in 2024, this would be the collection they would wear. Can’t you see Lady Danbury wearing the black floral outfit in the fourth picture? And the blue dress in the fifth picture is so Kate, is it not? This showcase truly made me feel like I was watching a modern fairy tale. A small detail I noticed was the shade of gold that used throughout the collection. It’s more of a “cornsilk”. This specific shade of gold has the power to elevate a look in an elegant way without screaming “HEY! I’M GOLD. DO YOU SEE MEEEE?” Ja feel?

Thom Browne

If Retrofête is the it girl of the season then Thom Browne was the weird theatre kid. And as a fellow theatre kid and writer myself, I was absolutely blown away by this show. This wasn’t just a fashion show, it as a theatrical performance. It’s a master piece of art, storytelling, and fashion. If you grew up in the States, you likely have had a love-hate relationship with Edgar Allan Poe. It’s hard to appreciate the artistic brilliance when his work was being force fed to you as an adolescent. However, as we get older and begin to value literature, he has earned a soft spot in all our hearts. Edgar is America’s dark academia, a trend that has consumed the fashion industry. Browne captured that not only through the wardrobe, but through set design and audio as well. Browne himself was quoted saying he wanted the show to be “romantically dark” and that’s exactly what it gave. I’m so excited to see what else is in store for the brand.

Next post, we are talking Burberry at LFW ‘24.